Cheapest and Easiest Curtains, EVER!

 Alright people…

See these drapes?

 They are beautiful right? Flowy, light, long, and perfect.  Of course they had better be for the  $129.99 PER PANEL at Restoration Hardware.

 I am going to let you in on a little secret,  you can make these same drapes for less than $15.00 for a SET of floor to ceiling drapes…

Ok, get your Joanns coupon,  and measure the height of your ceilings.

When shopping for material you will be looking for a material called “Muslin”.  This stuff is great!
They have several widths (starting at 36″  all the way up to 120″)   and traditionally, a bleached (white) and unbleached (linen).

 Pick the width  you would like your curtain to be.  I believe mine are 45″ but in retrospect I would have gone wider.  ( I think the next increment up is 90″)

 I have 10′ ceilings so I needed  right around 3 1/2 yards per panel,  for a total of 7 yards.

So you have a better idea:

 45″ Muslin  =  $2.99 x 7= $21.93 – (50% off coupon) = $10.46 !!!
or
90″ Muslin   = $5.99 x 7=  $41.93 – (50% off coupon) =$ 20.96 !!!  ( I should have done these…)

Ok,  so that was the cheap part, here is the easy part…

 Since you bought the fabric in the width you needed ,  you do not need to cut it,  therefore you do not need to sew the edges!  Half of the reason I love muslin is it’s selvage edge (factory edge).

 The only cuts you will need to make is the height.  This is a basic formula you can  use to calculate   your height:

Example:   ceiling to floor height  + 3″ for bottom hem + 4 ” (for a standard rod)= Total fabric length.

So layout your fabric and measure twice and cut (preferably with a rotary cutter),  this will ensure a nice straight cut.

( If you do not have one, and you want to become a more efficient seamstress or seamster,  I would definitely  invest in one!)

So lets start with the hem….

 If you started having a panic attack,   there is a tutorial here…  ( I swear basic sewing tutorials will be up eventually).

 You just completed the bottom hem, flip it over and do the exact same thing only leave 3.5″ and the .5″ folded under.   Deep breaths you can do this without a picture.

 FYI make sure your hems are both facing back,  I have several times gone to hang up a panel and realized I have sewn the hem on the opposite side and had to take it out and re-do it…

Once both ends are hemmed you can either  use a rod, or attach clips to hang.
I have used both rod version and clip versions in my home…  It all depends on the look you want!
 


So lets review, less than $15.00 for a SET = CHEAP
Sewing two straight lines = EASY
Not only are they the cheapest and easiest curtains to make they rival with Anthro, Restoration, and Pottery Barn. 
Sounds like a  winner to me!

                               Stay tuned for second way to use Muslin curtains with a twist!

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Posted in curtains, decorating, sewing | Leave a comment

Guest Room


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PVC Stairwell Lighting

                   

So,  I recently used PVC pipe on a few projects and I have become obsessed.  I have been finding the most random uses for it,  that is where this next project comes in…
I needed:
HEMMA Cord set IKEA
$4.99 Ikea Cord ( I needed 3  in addition to what  I had at home)
Leftover  PVC Pipe, and Joints
$1.00  Vases x 7

Photo: Another clue...
 Glass Drill Bit
Photo: Last clue...
$7 Spray Paint
Photo: Any guesses?!?!  I am so dang excited about this one!!!
Leftover Wood

For a grand total of $29.00 Spent…

I  have a freaking fantastic stairwell light fixture!

In fact it made it so much brighter that  I painted the accent wall a darker color, and I LOVE it.

Sorry there is NO WAY   I am going to be able to make a tutorial for this project.   They are all custom lengths, and heights.

But the same basic principle  can be applied  to your own homes. It’s a lot of math, ladders propped in odd positions,  near death experiences, and trial and error. But it CAN be done!

That being said,  I don’t think I have EVER spent this long on one project EVER! It took weeks of prep work and a few days to install… (Keep in mind  the ceiling is  nearly 17′ at some places.) It was a lot of work,  but it paid off!

Thanks for stopping by!
Corey
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Posted in DIY, lighting, PVC | 2 Comments

Cheap Nighstand Lamp Post

  

 So,  I like the idea of having reading lamps, BUT  I have a horrible habit of knocking them over.   THAT,  and I hate having  to move them in order to clean.  It’s just one more thing,   I don’t like clutter. My solution… 

 Replacing lamps was enticing,  especially when they are only about $9.00 a piece. 
 Here is what you will need:
Fir Stripping  1×3 (1)   $ 1.50 each 
Fir Stripping  1×2 (2)   $ 1.00 each
Fir Stripping  1×4 (1)   $ 3.00
Jelly Jar Light       (2)   $ 5.00 each 
Extension Cord     (2)  $ 1.00 each
You will first need to decide  how tall you want  the lamp to be. 
 I cut my boards tall enough to be higher than my nightstands,  I cut my boards at 2′. (They actually end behind the nightstands,  not at the floor).

 Cut List- ( This is to make TWO )

1×4 (2)  @ 2′
1×4 (2)  @ 4″
1×2 (4)  @ 2′
1×3 (2)  @ 5″
After cutting boards,  sand and stain or paint. 
Nail 1×2’s to the sides of the 1×4.

Nail the 1×3 to the top of the post.

 The new light fixture should come with a mounting bracket that looks like the one pictured below.  Simply screw  bracket to the new post.

Drill a hole below the mounting bracket so that wires be fed can through it.

Use cheap extension cords, like these.
 Cut off the ends of the cords, like this. 

  
Then  use a utility knife  to split  the ends.
 Use wire strippers to strip the last 3/4 inch of the casing.
 Feed wires through freshly drilled hole.
  
Here comes the fun part! 
 You can get them at Home Depot 
Wire the light fixture to the extension cord. When wiring, the white cord will be connected to the “ribbed wire” and the black will the connect to the “smooth”.  There is a little more detailed tutorial here.
 
Once wired, place the light fixture in place, then screw the caps on the bolts. The lamp is now finished!
Drill holes through the 1×4 block. 
 This block will be mounted directly to the wall. The newly made fixture will rest snuggly on the mounted block. 
 To secure in place secure with a screw through the top of fixture. 
They are perfect!  I love the way they turned out, they are unique, cheap, and out of the way!
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Posted in bedroom, lighting, plans | Leave a comment

Headboard Makeover

When Andrew and I first got married we did what most newly weds did for furniture, we looked all over Craigslist for something affordable.  We found a set of all black furniture,  that was mildly contemporary.  It was a full set and an awesome price,  I want to say $175?
 We were very happy with our little set for the first few years of marriage. After a while I realized I hated the black!  So what’s a girl to do ?
Time for a trip to Home Depot.

   Guess what it’s LAMINATE, and YES you can paint it.

First step:  Scuff it up using sandpaper.  You do NOT need to take off the entire finish,  just make it so it is not glossy!

Step two:  Use a decent primer. I used this.  I have no complaints.

Step three:  Top coat.

With this particular project I did more than just painting. ..
 I wanted to change the look of the bed completely,  I was going to change it from contemporary, to a clean cottage look.

 I  first measured the openings and cut out bead board  to fit the openings.

I used liquid nails to set the newly cut bead boards panels in place. 

Next Step:  I  used painters caulk, to  fill the edge seems.  There is a good tutorial here
I then added a piece of trim to the front as well as a 1×3  on the top. 

After  all of the edges had dried I was able to add a final coat of paint to hide the caulk lines.

  Ta- Da  Look at the difference it makes…  It’s like “black and white”!  (I’m hilarious). 
 Now I understand the likely hood of  any of my readers having the exact same headboard is slim-to-none… but  you can take the same basic premise and apply it to any number of projects!
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Posted in bed, bedroom, before and after, makeover, paint | 4 Comments

Pottery Barn Inspired Chandelier


 


What happens when you combine these seemingly ordinary items?

Something Freaking SPECTACULAR!

 I actually got my inspiration for this project from  “The Hand Me Down House” who does do a great tutorial which you can access here.

 I did make some changes to mine to accommodate the larger, bulkier glass casing.  I also wanted to incorporate turnbuckles, simply because I think they are cool!

  To refinish the different components I followed the basic premise of this chandelier

   I love the way it turned out, stay tuned it is just a small part of a new room makeover!

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Posted in DIY, lighting, spray paint | Leave a comment

How to Paint Paneled Doors

Painting doors can quickly, and cheaply add to the look of your home.

   I was sitting in the front room playing “tractors” with my boys the other day, I kept looking around  at the room and couldn’t  figure out what was missing… something was missing… It was kind of boring.

  Then it hit me,  there was not any real transition to the very kakhi/white sitting room, into the very blue/white family room. So the very boring door would be an excellent transition area, and bring some more color into the front room.

So I went and grabbed –
 Sander
Wash Rag
Screwdriver
Paint Brush
High Density Foam roller
Paint
and Paint Tray


Begin by removing the door knob.  There are typically only  two bolts that need to be loosed to remove the knob.

Next,  you will need to lightly sand the entire door.  Make sure you get in the recessed portions of your door  using either a foam sanding block, or a simple piece of sand paper.
Wipe down thoroughly, then allow to dry.

 

Then  grab your paint brush,  I love 2″ angled brushed myself.
With the brush you will first paint the recessed areas, also you will “cut in” around the hinges.  (I know lots of people prefer to just tape them off,  but I honestly think that sometimes prep work takes longer than simply being careful.)

You will now need  your roller and paint tray.  This part is fairly simple,  I have found that with the 

high density rollers  you really don’t need to worry about streaks!  These little guys are awesome.

 
In the event that you are still nervous about painting, here is the what the professionals suggest. 
I followed this same basic premise, but here is a diagram.

  After it is dried, determine if it needs another coat, if not reinstall hardware.  If yes, slap on another coat!

 Now stand back and admire the huge difference a coat of paint can make!


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Distressing Furniture

  I make a lot of the furniture in my home, so a majority of the time they have  imperfections.  I have found the best way to mask imperfections is to make it look intentional! “It’s Shabby Chic”. 
  Distressing furniture can add a lot of character and hide wood/paint imperfections!
Here is what  I do….
  Take either an electrical or hand sander and scuff the piece of furniture up. In my case I will be showcasing the side tables I made for the new guest room (Pictures coming soon.) 
When sanding,  it is best to try and sand the areas  that would naturally get the most wear, ie. the edges.

After sanding,  I take a LITTLE bit of stain and apply it  a small section of the table.  (Always work in small sections, the stain can dry very quickly and leave a streaky effect instead of “aged”.)

Then apply a little  bit of baby oil to an old rag and rub over the freshly applied stain. The baby oil makes the stain much easier to work with.

 Continue the same process over and over until you have completed the entire project.

 Here are both of the night stands,  one distressed and one original.  It is a subtle difference that make a big impact.

So if you have any old furniture that could use a “pick me up”  or a new paint job.  Consider distressing,  it can make the  old paint chipping look intentional!
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Crib Makeover

We were given our crib by a good friend, and it was well “loved”  by Wyatt, as made evident by the many teeth marks all over it. When I was preparing the new nursery for Lincoln I decided that  new paint was not enough… it needed a new look.

Before:  

During:

First: I started by cutting the bead board paneling so that it would fit in the end caps.

Second: Then I cut off the rounded top of the end caps, and put a 1×3 across the top with a piece of trim under that.


Last Step: Sanded it completely down  followed by , 2 coats of primer, followed by a topcoat.


After:



Ta-Da  a little elbow grease and a sheet of  bead board go a long way!

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Master Bedroom

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