Halloween Decor

 I have never really decorated for Halloween before.  My kids are now starting to really enjoy ALL holidays. Honestly, I only started decorating because I felt like a bad Mom.  So,  I started trolling pinterest for ideas, and found quite a few! Here are some of them…

Crib Mattress Porch Swing

  

I happened to have an extra crib mattress laying around…  one thing led to another… 

 

    The crib mattress that was collecting dust in the garage ultimately gave my front room the “wow factor”. Do you by chance have an extra crib mattress laying around ? Well my friend,  you are in luck,  you can make your very own porch swing.

Shopping List:

8 = 1×4’s

3=  1×2’s

3=  2×3’s

Plywood

Brad Nails

3″ wood screws

1 1/4″ Screws 

4=  6″  eyelet bolt w/ bolts and washers

Rope (length varies, depending on suspended height and ceiling height,  mine was approx 35-40′)

4= swing hardware hooks 

Crib Mattress

Suggested Materials/Tools:

Sander 

Miter Saw

Table Saw ( For plywood,  you can ask this to be cut at your home improvement store.) 

 Drill 

 1/2″ drill bit

 Nail gun ( You can complete this by hand or with a drill if needed)

 Air Compressor if applicable. 

 Brad Nails

 3″ Wood Screws

1 1/4″ Wood Screws  ( Not necessary if using a nail gun.)

Cut List:

 1×4’s

5@  52″

6@  27 

2@  26.5 

8@  22″

1×2’s

1@ 56″     (45 degree angles, long point to long point)

2@ 29.5″  (45 degree angles, long point to long point) 

2 @ 4″      (45 degree angle ,  long point to straight end)

2@ 21″

1@ 46″

2×3’s

2@ 47.5″

2@ 26.5″

2@ 23.5″

Plywood

1 @  26.5″ x  50.5″

 Begin by prepping your wood,  and making all your cuts.  ( If you are a beginner,  I might suggest making your cuts as you go, making sure all pieces fit correctly.)  

Second,  sand and stain/paint all your 1×2’s and 1×4’s.  While they are drying you can construct your   base out of 2×3’s. (Your base will not be visible.)

Use 3″ screws when constructing the base. 

Next, screw and or nail 2 of the 52″ and 26.5″  1×4’s around the perimeter of the base. 

 Using a square or a level fasten  your 1×4’s cut @ 22″ at each corner so that they are vertical.

At this point you can fasten the  remaining  52″ slats and the 27 1/4″ horizontal slats.  The top slat will be flush with the top of the 22″ vertical supports. 

Next install the top finishing pieces,  which consists of the 1×2’s cut at  56″ (long point to long point) , 2@ 29.5″ (long point to long point),and 2 @ 4″ ( long point to straight cut ).

  After the top rail is in place,  take the remaining 1×2’s and install directly below the top rail. (See pictures below.)  Install the 21″ pieces on the sides and the last 46″  along the back.

 Before placing the plywood in the base, we need to drill holes for the eyelet hooks.

 The placement of your eyelet bolt  holes will vary depending on where you are hanging it.  Mine are placed just inside the corners of my base. (You will be drilling through the 1×4″ and the 2×3″)

Once the hole is drilled insert and secure the eyelet bolt  with a locking washer, and bolt.

 I put a large washer on the outside of my swing as well, mainly because I like the look of exposed hardware.

Ok, I am not going to sugar coat it,  building the swing wasn’t too hard, it was installing the thing that is a pain in the ! You will NEED to mount  your swing hardware into ceiling joists.  I spent a good hour trying to configure measurements that would work. Just bear in mind, the closer set the ceiling hooks, the more momentum  the swing can get… Just log that one away.  

(Swing hardware)

  You can use chain if you would like to suspend your swing,  I chose to use rope,  if using chain simply count out the links  before hanging. If you chose rope here is my suggestion.   Decide  how far off the ground you would like your swing to sit. Find a sturdy  item that is the same height and  rest your swing on it  while you attach the ropes.  This will make life easier, and you are assured  it will be level. Originally I  had tried to measure my rope in advance,  but it turned out to be trickier than I had anticipated.

Now that everything is installed, you can  make it pretty!  I actually designed this swing  to accommodate a crib size mattress, BECAUSE they are considerably cheaper than buying foam to make a cushion.  Another bonus for all my sewing illiterate friends,  you can slap a crib sheet on it and call it good!   Add some throw pillows and you are done! Now sit down,  open a nice cold Diet Coke  and relax in your new swing!

Suspended Shelving

  I originally  had a frame hanging in this space in the kitchen,  but I decided I  needed the picture elsewhere.  Which left me we with a very blank wall.  No good.  So  I went into the garage, and took inventory of what  I had.  I had a leftover 2×8 board from a previous project…  a few hours later, I had some stinkin’ awesome hanging shelves!

Materials Needed:
(1 )     2×8 @ wood plank 8′
(18)    2.5″ Screw in hooks
(2)      1×2″ wood boards 8′
6′ of small link chain
Stain
Spray Paint (Optional)

Tools Suggested:
Saw (Miter Saw)  Or you can easily have your boards cut at your hardware store.
Sander
Drill
Level
Tape measure

Cut List:
(3)  2×8″ @ 33″
(4)  1×2″ @ 33″
(6)  1′ sections of chain ( I just pried open links)

 First  cut, sand and paint and or stain your 2×8’s and your 1×2’s.
 I chose to paint my 1×2’s the color of the wall in hopes it would blend in.  ( I think it worked fairly well.)  I stained my boards with Jacobean Minwax Stain. 
 I also decided that  I didn’t want my hooks and chain to be silver toned,  so I used Rust-o-leum Oil Rubbed Bronze.

Once all your pieces are dry you can begin the installation proccess.

   Using a pencil mark where  you would  like your shelf to begin and end.
Now locate the studs  within your “ideal” area. Once you have found them you will screw your 1×2″ board  into the studs, don’t forget to use a level. ( THIS DOES NOT NEED TO DECIDE WHERE THE CENTER OF THE SHELF WILL BE!) See the picture above.

 

   At this point,  I mounted all of  the 1×2’s.   I  did my spacing 14.5″ from the bottom of one support, to the bottom of the next. 

  If you are doing 3 shelves, you will need 4 supports.  There will be one board that will not have a shelf resting on it.  It will be needed to support the hooks for the top shelf. 

 Once the 1×2’s are secured,  you can put in your hooks.  I would suggest pre-drilling a hole.  It would take quite a bit of work without it.  I chose to put mine 5.5″ in from each end.

Once you have screwed in the hooks,  you can repeat the process on the planks. Again, measure in 5.5″ to find the hook placement.

Next you will need to have 6 separate 1′ sections of chain.  I don’t have cutters,  I just  pried them apart.
 You will  loop one end of your chain onto the hook mounted to the wall.  The other end will loop onto the hook secured to your shelf plank.  Rest the back of the shelf on the wall mounted board.

  For good measure  I would suggest screwing the shelf to the wall mounted board.  (Just drill through the top of the shelf plank, down into the 1×2″.)

As an after thought, I took  2 spare hooks, and mounted them under a shelf  to be used as mug hooks. It just adds a little somthin’, somethin’,  don’t you think  !?

Lastly, add decor, then stand back and admire your awesome, new, cheap shelves!

Corey

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PVC Pipe Shelf

  I am still on my PVC kick.  So naturally when I dreamed up a new idea I pulled out all my left over PVC pipe and joints and started playing with different possibilities. I found some dimensions I liked and got to work,  here is what  I did and what you will need.

Tools Required:

 Rubber Mallet 

Sand Paper

Saw ( I would suggest a Miter Saw)

Drill 

1″ Paddle Bit 

Sander ( Suggested) 

Materials Needed:

Spray Primer 

Metallic Spray Paint 

Stain

2×10 wood planks                (Amount varies by project size)

3/4″ PVC pipe                      (Amount varies by project size)

“T”  PVC Joints                    (Amount varies by project size)

 I started by using  sand paper and scuffed up all the  PVC pipe. Once they were roughed up,  I cut them down to my predetermined measurements.   

  Once cut,  I  put together my brackets, and then primed ALL my pieces.  I used a spray primer,  I HIGHLY suggest it.  It is cheaper than  metal spray paint,  and it coated all my pvc quickly.  Since it was all primed gray, it didn’t require as much of the expensive metallic spray paint to cover the original white PVC.

 

After you have primed all your pieces you need to paint all your PVC in your choice of metal finish.  I used Rustoleum’s Oil Rubbed Bronze.  Let it dry COMPLETELY.   I am warning you , once painted,  it becomes really difficult to pull the PVC pieces apart.

While the PVC pipes were drying I worked on the shelves. 

For the shelves I used 2×10’s, in varying lengths.  You can adjust the length of the shelves to fit your own needs.  I used a paddle bit to drill 1″ holes that would allow the PVC to fit through.  After the holes were drilled I sanded the boards and then stained them.

 

 I then started assembling the shelves.  I kind of made up the measurements as  I went, and what  I thought looked good.

Slowly  but surely it started to come together.  I suggest using a rubber mallet. Making the pieces fit together sometimes required a little finesse.

All that is left to do is add some decor!  I love the way it fills the space, and all for less than $50.00!

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Ikea Hack

How many of you have  something similar to this sitting around your house.  Pantry? Garage? Closet?

     Well for about $10.00 you can turn it into a beautiful piece of functional furniture. 

Here is what you need:

2 x  lattice strips 8′ (Usually in the fence lumber department the are about 1/4″ thick x 1.5″wide)

5 x  1×3’s  @ 8′                                                                                                                    

Metal Spray Paint                                                                                                                      

Liquid Nails                                                                                                                            

Metal Shelving Unit ( I used an HYLLIS Ikea Shelf)                                                            

Stain

                                                                                                                                                 

 First, use steel wool and scuff up the entire surface of the metal shelving unit. 

 Using the directions on the spray paint,  paint the entire shelf unit. 

Next cut the 1×3’s to fit your shelf.  

If you are using and Ikea HYLLIS unit:

16 (1×3’s)  @  23.5″ 

2   (lattice) @ 55.5″

 Once cut,  sand all 18 pieces, then stain. (They will be glued in place, so you can be lazy and only sand and stain one side, I did.)

Once the stain is dry take your choice of construction glue ( I favor Liquid nails),  simply glue the slats down. Yes,  just  put some glue on the back of your boards and place directly on the metal shelf.  Repeat on all tiers.

.

If you are using the HYLLIS shelf, there will be about and 1/8″ gap in between each board.

  I used the lattice slats, as a stabilizer as well as aesthetics.  I like the look of it!

I cut the lattice strips on a 25ish degree angle. I simply attached to unit with screws. 

          There you have it folks, a high end looking shelf for a fraction of the cost. Another thing  I love about this, it is  completely  customizable to your own color schemes! You can use any stain color and/or spray paint color.  The possibilities are endless!

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Chalkboard Calendar

  No power tools? No problem.  This post is specifically for you!

 Home Depot carry a   2’x4′ panel of chalkboard for $10.    I know there are a lot of different options on chalkboard paint, but I have found this is cheaper and less labor intensive. 

    If you do not have your own table saw  I would suggest asking  someone in the lumber department to cut it to your desired size.  They are very helpful and will do it for free (within reason).

       For the space I wanted mine to hang I  cut mine at 30″ wide and left the height at 24″.

       Using a pencil and a straight edge I graphed in all the lines.  Make sure you do all of them,  even with a straight edge  it can be tricky and end up crooked.  Take it from me it is easier to make a mistake in pencil than paint!
  If you are also following the same measurements as mine  there  is a  .5″ space between each  3.5″ square,  with a 1″ border on the bottom and sides, and 2.5″ space on top where the days of the week will go.

 After you are content with the pencil out lines, take a paint marker and trace over your lines. For this step  I used the straight edge again, so that my lines would be nice and straight.

 I then added the days of the week.  I typically freehand,  but if you are a  bit skeptical of your abilities,  you can always use  the pencil transfer method.  There is a great tutorial here.

    Ta- Da, a one day project that doesn’t require a workshop, and it’s cute and practical!

 Thanks for stopping by.

P.S.  See the subscribe button to the left ?  You should probably push it. Thanks!

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Evolution of the Guest Room

   Have you ever been afraid to start a project because you didn’t know EXACTLY what you wanted the outcome to be ?  Have no fear, you are not alone…

   When moving into our house, the guest room was the catch all of misfit furniture.

 “Where should this go ?”,  “Hmm, I don’t know,  just put it in the guest room.”

Hopefully  you are nodding your head in agreement as you consider a similar section of your home. 

 It was a hodge-podge attempt at a a room.  I TRIED to make it cohesive, and I just was adding more things I didn’t love in an effort to make it flow. (Hopefully that makes sense.)

Well one afternoon as I was sitting in the room staring at it, (yes, I do that) and I had an epiphany.  I was certainly spending time and money trying to make the space work, why not just spend that time and money and make something I love.  Who cares that I will not use the  comforter I’ve had for years.  I am spending MORE money trying to make it work, than it would be to buy a  new blanket!

 SO…This is the journey of the misfit room to the Guest Room!

   Again,  not bad,  but it is not my typical color scheme.  There is not a speck of blue in the entire room.  That is a problem. (I like blue)

  I saw  this picture on Pinterest one day and fell in love with the color scheme!   I had found my point of inspiration.

The room was just “heavy”.   It needed to be lightened. Let me tell you,  there is a HUGE difference between a light cream, and white.  The original room was a contractors white (off-white) , and the picture below shows an ultra white.  It made a big difference in the room right away! Same with the curtains,  I took down the off-white and put in  pure white curtains.  Again, huge difference.

   Oh, that is much better…  I found a navy blanket for $30.00 at Ross, and used some of my white sheets and old bed skirt.  Next  I painted the end tables coral.  But it was still missing something…

    I thought that maybe the wooden bed frame, was throwing me off.  I removed the bed frame and turned  it into a headboard! 
 (There will be a tutorial for this, someday.)

Again,  I liked where it was going,  but it was STILL off…  What was it ?

Of course, how silly of me, I needed a blue wall…  if I am ever missing anything,  I just assume it  needs more blue, and I assumed correctly.

  I liked the blue wall,  but  I was torn about the stained headboard. I took a gamble and painted the headboard white.   I took a sigh of relief when I realized the white  was just what it needed.  Phew.

 Ta-da,  I had achieved a guest room that I was excited to have guests in.

 There were MANY undocumented changes along the way i.e. pillows, night stands, wall art, curtains, etc.  My main point being, that if you are hesitant to pull the trigger on a project, don’t be!  You are allowed to change your mind!  I have decided that all projects are a process, and if you give up at the first hiccup you won’t ever like your final product.  Believe me I very RARELY get it right the first time,  but  guess what,  all the extra practice has helped me developed a whole bunch of random skills along the way.

 So be brave and pop open that paint can.

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Add Character to Your Cabinets!

    Our kitchen cabinets have come a long way since we moved in.(See before). I love the way it looks,  but it need a little pizzaz. I wanted to add a little color, BUT  I didn’t want to clutter up the space above the cabinets,  so this is what I came up with!

 I simply removed the cabinet doors, and filled the hinge holes.

 

If you would like to add a glass rack to your cabinets, here is a very easy way!
All you need is :

 3   – pieces of 1×2″  ( cut to the depth of your cabinets)
 6   – 2″ bolts
18  –  nuts

 

 Simply drill holes through you 1×2″ slats as well as your shelving board. Use the bolts to hang the slats securely.
Easy Peasy.

For a few bucks you can add a lot of character  to your kitchen cabinets!

Cheapest and Easiest Curtains EVER. (Part 2)

Last week we learned how to make these beautiful Muslin curtains. Not only are these panels CHEAP and easy, they are versatile!

As promised,  here is another way you can use your Muslin Curtains. You can add TEXTURE!

 You can create awesome texture by tying  the panels in knots. Then toss them in the washer.

  You can let them air dry if you want to avoid any shrinking. But I live and Florida, and with humidity, it  would mold before it would ever dry, so  I put mine in the dryer…

Once dry unravel and you can have a totally different look!

 

 Thanks for stopping by! 

                Corey Decker

Bed Canopy

 Hey Everyone,  I  am  thrilled to be a guest blogger over at “Take It From Me” . Make sure you head on over and check it out.  You can learn how to make a bed canopy!

 Corey